An honest companion to Kashi — the ghats, the lanes, the food, the chants, and the eternal river that holds it all together.
Best Time
Oct – Mar
Cool weather and Dev Deepawali season
Languages
Hindi, Bhojpuri
English and basic Bengali common
Currency
Indian Rupee (INR)
ATMs at Godowlia and Cantt
Local SIM
Jio / Airtel
Stable 4G in old city, hotel WiFi excellent
About the City
Varanasi — Kashi to her devotees, Banaras to her lovers — is the oldest continuously inhabited city in the world. Mark Twain, who visited in 1896, wrote that "Benares is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend, and looks twice as old as all of them put together." More than a century later, that observation still feels exactly right. To stand on the Dashashwamedh Ghat at sunrise and watch the Ganga turn from black to amber to gold is to sense something that is at once geological and theological, something far older and far more enduring than the politics of any single age.
The city sits on a crescent-shaped western bank of the Ganga, and along this curve unfold its eighty-four ghats — each one an amphitheatre of stone steps descending into the sacred river, each one with its own story. Some are crowded and theatrical, like Dashashwamedh with its nightly aarti of fire and song. Some are silent and grave, like Manikarnika and Harishchandra, where the cremation pyres burn day and night. Some are bohemian and artistic, like Assi, where students of the Banaras Hindu University gather at dusk to play the tabla. The ghats are not a tourist attraction in the conventional sense; they are a living religious-cum-civic space, and to walk them slowly from south to north is to receive a complete education in Hindu thought.
Above the ghats, in the maze of lanes called the Pakka Mahal, lives the city's second self — a labyrinth of brass-bell shops, paan stalls, silk weavers, sweet halwais and tiny shrines tucked into walls so old they have begun to lean. Cows wander unfazed, processions snake past, and somewhere a Sanskrit recitation is always drifting from a window. At the heart of this maze stands the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, one of the twelve Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva and the spiritual centre of gravity for Hindus everywhere. Lord Shiva, the city's eternal resident, is said to whisper the Taraka Mantra into the ear of every soul that dies in Kashi, granting moksha. That promise — of liberation from the cycle of birth and death — is what has drawn pilgrims here for at least three thousand years, and it is what continues to draw them today.
Getting Here
Varanasi is exceptionally well-connected — by air, rail, and road — from every Indian metro and many international cities.
Lal Bahadur Shastri International Airport (VNS) is 25 km from the ghats. Direct daily flights from Delhi (1h 30m), Mumbai (2h), Bengaluru (2h 30m), Hyderabad (2h), Kolkata (1h 45m), and Chennai (3h).
International direct flights operate from Bangkok and Sharjah; many other international guests connect via Delhi. The airport has prepaid taxi counters; the journey to the ghats takes 45–60 minutes depending on traffic.
Varanasi Junction (BSB), also called Varanasi Cantt, is one of India's busiest stations. Direct trains from Delhi (8 h on Vande Bharat / 12 h on Shiv Ganga Exp), Mumbai (24 h on Mahanagari Exp), Kolkata (14 h on Doon Exp), and Bengaluru (38 h on Sanghamitra Exp).
The newer Banaras Station (BSBS), formerly Manduadih, is less congested. Pt. Deen Dayal Upadhyaya Junction (DDU), 17 km away, serves many long-distance trains.
Varanasi is on NH-19 (the upgraded Grand Trunk Road). Comfortable driving times: Prayagraj 125 km / 3 h, Lucknow 300 km / 6 h, Ayodhya 200 km / 5 h, Bodhgaya 250 km / 5 h, and Delhi 790 km / 12 h.
Volvo and sleeper buses run nightly from Delhi, Lucknow and Patna. For day-trip flexibility within the region, our chauffeur-driven sedans and SUVs are the most popular option.
Where to Worship
The temples, ghats and shrines that no Varanasi visit should miss. We recommend covering them in this rough order.
One of the twelve Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva and the most revered Shiva temple in the world. The newly developed Kashi Vishwanath Corridor connects the temple directly to the Ganga, transforming the approach without disturbing the ancient sanctum.
Mangala Aarti 2:30 AM — Shringar Aarti 11:00 PM
The principal ghat of Varanasi and the venue for the world-famous Ganga Aarti each evening. Said to be the spot where Lord Brahma performed the Dashashwamedha (ten-horse) yagna at the dawn of creation.
Ganga Aarti at sunset (6:00–7:00 PM)
The principal cremation ghat where the funeral pyres burn day and night. Considered the most sacred place to be cremated in the Hindu tradition, as those who die here are believed to attain moksha.
Open 24 hours — observe respectfully
The southernmost ghat where the Assi stream meets the Ganga. Famous for its serene morning Subah-e-Banaras programme of Vedic chants, yoga, and live classical music at first light.
Subah-e-Banaras 5:00–7:00 AM daily
A 16th-century temple founded by the saint-poet Tulsidas himself, who is said to have had a vision of Hanuman here. Famous for Tuesday and Saturday darshans and the annual sangeet samaroh of classical music.
5:00 AM – 12:00 PM, 3:00 PM – 10:00 PM
Just 10 km from Varanasi, the place where the Buddha delivered his first sermon after enlightenment. The Dhamek Stupa, Mulagandha Kuti Vihar and the Archaeological Museum (housing the Lion Capital of Ashoka) are essentials.
Dawn to dusk; Museum closed Fridays
Adjoining the Kashi Vishwanath complex, the temple of the goddess of food. The annual Annakut darshan during Diwali, when the goddess is shown holding a golden ladle, draws the largest crowds of the year.
4:00 AM – 11:30 PM (with breaks)
A modern marble temple built at the spot where Tulsidas is said to have composed parts of the Ramcharitmanas. The walls are inscribed with verses of the epic, and the upper floors feature animatronic Ramayana scenes.
5:30 AM – 12:00 PM, 3:30 PM – 9:00 PM
Plan Your Days
Three battle-tested itineraries from years of guiding pilgrim guests. Adjust to taste.
Taste of Banaras
Banarasi cuisine is bold, sweet, and proudly vegetarian. The street food here is among the most celebrated in India.
Crisp puffed kachoris stuffed with urad dal, served with a tangy potato sabzi. The legendary morning ritual at Ram Bhandar, Lakshmi Chai or Deena Chaat Bhandar.
A signature Banarasi street snack of spiced tomato pulp topped with sev and chutneys. Best at Kashi Chat Bhandar in Godowlia — a Varanasi institution since the 1960s.
A winter-only dessert of sweetened milk foam flavoured with saffron and pistachios, hand-whisked overnight in the cold dew. Sold by hawkers in the old city from November to February.
The crowning ritual of every Banarasi meal — fresh betel leaves wrapped around catechu, lime, supari and rose petal preserve. Try the famous magahi paan at Keshav Tambul Bhandar.
A 90-year-old shop in the Kachori Gali serving thick clay-pot lassis topped with seasonal fruit. The mango lassi in summer and rabri lassi in winter are legendary.
Roasted wheat balls stuffed with sattu and served with mashed brinjal-tomato chokha and ghee. A Bhojpuri classic available in evening eateries near Assi Ghat.
Year of Devotion
Varanasi celebrates almost every Hindu festival with unmatched intensity. Plan around these dates for a richer experience.
| Month | Festival | What to Expect |
|---|---|---|
| Jan | Makar Sankranti | Ganga snan and kite flying from the ghats |
| Feb–Mar | Maha Shivaratri | All-night Shiva worship at Kashi Vishwanath — biggest crowd of the year |
| Mar | Holi | The famous Masan ki Holi played with cremation ash at Manikarnika |
| Apr | Hanuman Jayanti | Special pujas at Sankat Mochan and Durga Kund |
| May | Buddha Purnima | Major celebrations at Sarnath, the Buddhist pilgrimage centre |
| Jul–Aug | Shravan Maas | Peak Shiva month — every Monday sees a massive Vishwanath darshan |
| Sep | Pitru Paksha | Pind daan and tarpan rituals at Pishach Mochan and the ghats |
| Oct | Navratri & Dussehra | Ramnagar Ramleela — the world's longest dramatised Ramayana |
| Nov | Dev Deepawali | On Kartik Purnima — every ghat lit with lakhs of diyas, Varanasi's most magical night |
| Dec | Vishwanath Bhog Aarti | Special winter aartis and Christmas tourism season begins |
Travel Smart
Hard-won knowledge from years of guiding pilgrims through the rhythms of Banaras.
ATMs of all major banks operate at Godowlia, Cantt, and Sigra. Carry small notes for boats, rickshaws and offerings. UPI works at most established shops, but riverside vendors prefer cash.
BHU (Banaras Hindu University) Hospital and Heritage Hospital are the leading multi-specialty centres. Apollo and Galaxy hospitals on the Cantt side handle most foreign-tourist cases. Pharmacies at Godowlia stay open till 11 PM.
The ghats and main lanes are very safe even after dark, with strong police patrolling. Pickpocketing in Vishwanath and Dashashwamedh queues is the only realistic risk — keep valuables in front pockets and use a hotel safe for passports.
Modest clothing for temples — covered shoulders and knees. Cotton kurtas are most comfortable in summer. Carry a stole/dupatta for the Vishwanath darshan. Footwear must be removed and stored at every shrine entry.
Strictly no photography inside Kashi Vishwanath premises. Photography at Manikarnika cremation ghat is deeply disrespectful and may invite confrontation — never attempt it. The Ganga Aarti, ghats and lanes are otherwise open. Always ask before photographing sadhus.
Sunrise (5–7 AM) is the most beautiful and least crowded time on the ghats. Mid-morning Vishwanath darshan from 9:30 AM is steady. Avoid 11 AM – 1 PM for Vishwanath. Evening Aarti from 5:30 PM is the peak experience — book a boat for the best view.
Common Questions
The Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat begins around 6:30 PM in winter and 7:00 PM in summer. The best view is from a boat anchored mid-river — book one through your hotel or directly at the ghat from 5:30 PM. From the steps, arrive by 5:30 PM to find a seat. Premium boats with cushioned seating cost around Rs 500–1500 per person.
Absolutely — most pilgrims describe it as the single most moving experience of their entire yatra. Watching the ghats come alive as the sun rises over the Ganga, with thousands performing morning rituals, is unforgettable. Boats depart from any ghat between 5:00 and 5:30 AM. Carry a shawl in winter; the river is cold.
A minimum of 2 nights / 3 days lets you cover the ghats, Vishwanath, and Sarnath without rushing. Three nights are ideal if you want to also explore Banarasi silk, classical music, or Ayurveda. NRI guests on combined yatras typically allocate 2 nights to Varanasi within a 5–7 day plan.
Yes, the temple is open to all Hindus and visitors of any nationality. Foreign tourists must present their passport at the security check. Phones, cameras, leather, and electronics must be deposited in lockers (free). The corridor approach is well-marked and English signage is now in place.
Generally yes, especially in the ghat and old city tourist zones. Stick to busier lanes after dark, use registered prepaid taxis, and avoid eye contact with persistent touts. Most of our female guests report feeling safer in Varanasi than in many Western cities. Trust your hotel for any in-city transport.
Avoid the touts near the ghats and any shop that quotes wildly inflated initial prices. Visit the original weavers in Madanpura or trust government-run UP Handlooms. Look for the Silk Mark certification tag, ask to see the weave under a magnifying glass (real silk has irregular knots), and be prepared to bargain firmly. Our packages include a guided weavers' visit to vetted ateliers.
Dev Deepawali is celebrated on Kartik Purnima (the full moon 15 days after Diwali, usually mid-November). On this night, every ghat is illuminated with lakhs of clay diyas in a spectacle that has no parallel in India. Hotels are sold out months ahead — book by July at the latest if you want to attend.
Choose from our curated Varanasi packages or speak to a planner who has personally walked every ghat of this eternal city.
